Didit Hediprasetyo Spring/Summer Couture Collection 2014

There are straight shoulders, emphasized waists, and straight cuts. There is subtle femininity, bare flesh revealed through a low neckline, and the volume of a A-line skirt light as air. But though there may be Fifties reminiscences or the feel of a ride to Napa Valley, the colours of a Californian season give a subtle stamp to this Paris couture free from any hint of the vintage.

Perched on her kitten heels, Didit Hediprasetyo's woman sinks into a mood that is sensitive and sensual rather than overtly sexy. A slender vine in a chic jumpsuit consisting of a lambskin shirt-front and trousers that come in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth of Songket (a traditional handwoven Indonesian brocade), she wraps herself in a swansdown and leather bomber jacket embroidered with leaves and vine shoots. The luxury touch is even seen in a sporty feel – though the couture expertise has no whiff of the ordinary – where masculine fabrics give class to fitted trousers that emphasize the waist and give a slight curve to the hips through a draped pleat.

The spirit of Old Hollywood underlies draped necklines, a tailored cardigan in supple leather or, in another style, a dress in embroidered fleece covering the body in truly modest elegance. There is also the A-line of an ultra-feminine crinoline-style dress in cotton fleece, whose asymmetrical front incorporates leather, in the play on construction so dear to the couturier. Meanwhile, the beauty of a seemingly endless dress tailored in vanilla leather, with a belt built like a corset, accentuates its modernity still further.

Then, in earth colours, straw-colored silk, cream leather and bronze wool, we find the purity of long, empire-cut mermaid dresses, whose immaculate cloth is embellished with sublime broderie anglaise, ornamental vines, bunches of grapes and delicate vine leaves created by the Lesage company – like an infinitely "couture" signature.